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Galleries
France
2006 Gallery
-- Go ahead, click on
the images to enlarge.
I spent ten days
in France
from October 17 to October
25, 2006,
mostly in the Paris area at the Conrail hotel, near
the Gare de Lyon railway station, but also with French friends outside
the city, including near the town of Fontainebleau. The
weather
was mostly cloudy
with some rain, but it didn't put a damper at all on the great time I
had. Being a train lover, and also a book lover
(because
there was a
nice bookstore in the train station), I went to the Gare de Lyon train
station every day.
Inside
the
station, was Le Train Blue (The Blue Train)
restaurant, which at night took on an eerie glow from the lighted blue
of the name above the restaurant. There was a bustle and
swarm of
people about, some riding the subway, others the regional
trains.
In France there
are spectacular super trains, called the TGV (Le Train Grand
Vitesse), and others which can cover huge distances, in amazingly
short
periods of time.
The
train to the right appears to be a SNCF
(Société Nationale des Chemins de fer Français/National Society of
French trains), but
there can be no doubt that it is fast), goes purportedly from Paris
to Dijon France, famous for its mustard, and as
capital of the Burgundy
region) half the
country away in significantly less than
two hours. I mulled doing a day trip, just to ride that super
fast train, but my
stay was
too short, and also, Dijon
in the
eastern part of France
is supposed to have a very wet climate. So I decided, given
the
cloudy, misty situtation in Paris,
not to make the wetness worse. Instead, I opted for
museums. One day, I went to Musée
D'Orsay (the Impressionist
Museum)
with
a poet-friend from my area in the United States, and a lover of all
things French. She was visiting the same time I was; indeed,
had
rented
an apartment for a month. We saw inside the museum
on the
lower level, the famous
sculpture called Ours Blanc (Polar Bear) by Pompon, who had
been an associate
of Rodin, and Camille
Claudel. This sculpture was first exhibited at the Salon
D'Automne in 1922.
D'Orsay is particularly known for its many spectacular impressionist
paintings
from Monet, to Van Gogh,
Gaughin, and sundry other masters.
At the Musée
Marmottan Monet, there is a wonderful collection of Monet
paintings, including the famous "Impression Soleil levant" (Impression
of the Rising Sun), and many paintings by other impressionists such as
Boudin, Gaughin, Morisot, Renoir). On the way to this museum
after
exiting from the Muette subway
stop I
turned around to a spectacular view of the Eiffel
Tower, set
off by an
Insolence by
Guerlain perfume advertisement -- a strange juxtaposition of images
that seemed just right for the moment. One can notice
a
trace of sunshine on
the facade of the
buildings in front of the Eiffel
Tower.
Because during this October period which I chose for my vacation, sun
was malheureusement,
as the French would say, rare, one had to be especially agile with the
camera,
to get it in a picture during unexpectedly blissful moments
when
the sun was inclined to sneak a few beneficial rays of light to Paris,
otherwise known as the City of Light. Of course,
notwithstanding the string of cloudy, misty days, evident in
this
particular October period, there is so much culture
and excitement in Paris,
that it is a City of Light,
without
any
sunlight. So imagine what Paris is like when the sun does
choose
to
shine!
One day,
particularly dark and with
its share of sprinkles,
I was sitting at an outdoor table, at the Place des Pyramides, having
coffee and a snack, not far from the
Louvre, when the
the sun
made a surprise appearance, casting a brilliant ephemeral glow on a
statute of
Joan of Arc (by Emmanuel Frémiet, 1874), and voilà, there
to the left, with
lightening speed, this
poet-photographer took his
shot.
Another
day, I
decided to visit the Centre
Pompidou, which is the Paris modern art
museum.
Always, it seems, that outside, there are ubiquitous
performers--musicians, jugglers, mimes -- that more than capture one's
attention. Still, the design of the
building is unique and fascinating -- an exposed
skeleton of
bright
colored tubes for mechanical systems,
that was deemed at first
scandalous, but later became a
popular attraction. From the terrace of the museum, are
wonderful
views of the city, and some sculpture, like the image to the left, Capricorn
by Max Ernst.
In particular,
in the distance,
behind the sculpture, is the Sacre Coeur cathedral (which some years
before I'd climbed breathless to the top), and another of
the Eiffel Tower, though
don't be deceived by the appearance of nice weather, as I resurrected
these few photos as well as the one of a water exhibit near the Centre
Pompidou (in the string of six photos below) from that trip to Paris
from that earlier time. On the current
visit, I did go to the Centre Pompidou, but did not take many photos
there. Afterwards, I wandered off, and ended up at the Notre
Dame Cathedral (construction of which purportedly began in
1163). Later, I passed one of those kiosks,
that are seen all over Paris, filled with les journals --
Figaro, le Monde,
Match, L'Express, and sundry other magazines and books.
I stayed at the
Corail hotel À deux pas
from the
Gare de Lyon train station for a few days. I love
that expression
"À deux
pas" since it translates literally to mean two steps, but actually, I
was
a few blocks from the train station. The expression in French
simply
means being very close
to something. And of course,
very close,
is a
relative term. My room was small, but the hotel both clean
and
pleasant
(not
to mention the merits of inexpensive), and when I looked out the
window, it had
a nice view of a movie theater across-the-street.
Notice my photo
of the
facade of that theater again has sun in it. I had, during
this
trip to France,
perfected the reflex of grabbing my camera and taking a picture the
instant
there was light, the end result of which, when I look through my
photos, is the
illusion that the sun was shining more than a modest amount during my
trip. Ten years
from now, when I look at some of these photos,
might I forget how cloudy, drizzly
it was? My hotel in Paris, the Corail
was within walking distance
from quite a
few famous areas. One of them was the Bastille with its
statue.
One night I went to the Bastille neighborhood (photo to the
right) to
see a spectacular
performance of Hector Berlioz's Les Troyens at the L'Opéra de la
Bastille, the home base of the National Opéra de Paris.
Interestingly, this Opera House was not built until 1989, and did not
see its first performance until March 17, 1990 with Berlioz's Les
Troyens, so what I was privileged to see performed was for Parisians an
exciting
sort of deja vu.
It
helped enormously to be able to count on those surtitres (supertitles),
because I
can read French, but there was no way I
could
understand oral French, sung.
The Opera itself is in five acts and is quite long, so is infrequently
performed.
Earlier in the day, I enjoyed walking in some of the
neighborhoods,
near where I was staying, like the one to the left with the
ever-present tabac
store,
where the French mix
the sale of stamps and tobacco.
And below to the right, a narrow
street in Paris, like so many others, that gave an almost medieval feel
(A brief
history of Paris goes back to the third century B.C.).
Throughout my
visit, I loved, not just walking above ground, but also riding The
Paris Metro -- first opened in 1900 -- which had many lines,
filled
with world famous attractions. At quite a few of
the stops,
there were musicians playing. They
might be jazz oriented, or maybe just through an accordion, evoked a
feeling of nostalgia, something in the music for that instrument,
which at times feels inimitably French. When I visited Rome a few years
ago, there were also street performers in the subways. It is
not
that common in the United States.
After
several
days at my hotel near the Gare de Lyon, I moved
outside of Paris, to be with
friends. One day we had a wonderful luncheon
with many members of the family present, including charts tracing the
family line, including those who had disappeared during the
holocaust.
Afterwards, we took a walk outside to enjoy the October
afternoon. And
in that photo (where I stand second to the right), not counting the
dog) isn't that a trace of sun again?
I
had the good fortune on this trip to visit the town of Fontainebleau,
as well as the
Fontainebleau
Chateau, residence of kings going back
centuries. The town itself with the wonderfully narrow streets, so
common in Europe gave a feeling of the richness of history.
On
most of my
visit, French foods, wines, etc. were the norm. Indeed, a day
from now, the French friend I was staying with would play to my delight
in all the varieties of French cheese by giving me a gift of some.
Today, though, our focus for lunch was Italian, at a restaurant not far
from the castle. I wonder how many guests (no doubt some from
out
of the country) she has gone out of her way
to show this town and castle. I
certainly hope on this day she wasn't too bored here, as coming was
such a treat
for me.
Directly
to the
right is a view of the castle from outside, through the extensive
grounds in front. And below two views of the famous staircase
where
Napoleon
gave his farewell remarks before being exiled to
Elba. | | | The
complexity of
the history made me keenly aware of my lack of knowledge, which I
hope I
might some time improve on in the future. Normally, when I
come
to France I focus more on art galleries. |
Art
is something I can grasp. The history covers so many
centuries (something Europeans are much more familiar with than
Americans), it leaves me a bit overwhelmed. Would I ever be
able
to get the names of all of the Kings and Queens straight? I
still
have not gone to Versailles, which goes back to the time of
Louis XIV. It's good to have some major
attractions to look forward yet to seeing. | | |
As we
left after
touring the castle, I looked back and saw a view of the fountain,
overflowing. A perfect metaphor for this place, my trip,
feelings.
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